Which Print Paper? Europe

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Wed, 2009-08-19 20:53
madnazz

Hi, me and my friends we created some new cards and wanted them to test, we copied em on normal photo paper, nice quality but its not that robust and cards feel like pudding in our hands lol. Does somebody know some good quality paper with a right thickness? Doesnt need to be 100% like a real magic card, but it should be close to it. Without the right thickness, theres not much fun =(.
best regards and thanks for your hard work

Markus

Wed, 2009-08-19 21:21
windandfire
windandfire's picture

You could ask around at a nearby office supply store. Someone might recognize the thickness of the paper.

Alternatively and more effectively, you could get some card sleeves and start playing with those. That way, there will be no noticeable difference between your cards and real cards in your deck. It also lets you write out a card on a notecard and play with them without printing another sheet of cards in case you want to try something out quickly.

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Thu, 2009-08-20 06:00
coppro
Administrator
coppro's picture

I find that the best way to use custom cards is simply to print them off on regular paper and put them in sleeves in front of regular cards (basic lands or surplus commons work well).

Thu, 2009-08-20 10:59
madnazz

Thanks for replying.
I know this sleeves possibility, but i can't imagine thats fun. And i can't imagine that nobody on these forums have no clue of a similar paper to the original (not exactly the original-that would be criminal xD), just post the name of similar papers here - maybe a google link (european)! =D
best regards
mz

Thu, 2009-08-20 12:30
Idle Muse
Idle Muse's picture

The reason you haven't got a real response is because practically everyone uses the basic-land + sleeves approach. It really is the best for providing the same feel as real magic, without getting into awkward faking discussions.

Formerly known as Lordpenguin.
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Thu, 2009-08-20 12:55
Pichoro
Pichoro's picture

I've gotta echo Idle Muse and Coppro - I recommend the insert into sleeve in front of common approach. Because personally, I can't imagine that spending loads of money on heavy semi-authentic card stock is "fun", nor can I think that things like lining up stickers on a card are "fun" either.

Benefits of Sleeve Approach:
1.) Perhaps slightly less frustrating than stickers.
2.) Less expensive than heavy card stock.
3.) Personally, I like to tweak cards a lot. If I do, with sleeves, I don't have to make a whole new quality card. I just do another cheap print-out and replace the old one with the new one. Voila!
4.) Takes care of the problem that you won't have authentic card backs on faked cards, as MSE doesn't provide those.

I truly believe sleeving is the best way to go about playing with your custom cards. It also is the least likely to get you in trouble.

Thu, 2009-08-20 19:16
Idle Muse
Idle Muse's picture

I used to do stickers, when i didn't have enough sleeves, but then i realised for something casual like this, penny sleeves are fine.

Formerly known as Lordpenguin.
Download DraftWithMSE to draft custom MSE sets!

Sun, 2009-08-23 23:45
kalkris
kalkris's picture

I'd say, if you have any useless foils that have no value to you, peel off the cardfront [the foil part] and print a test copy of your card onto plain paper. after that you tape the card [correctly-alligned, and at the corners] to the same sheet of paper [where the card would be printed onto], and print it there. Let it dry for a little while.

only thing is, even if that's how i do it, I'm not sure how it works with other printers.

LOL WUT

Mon, 2009-08-24 01:51
Joz
Joz's picture

Quote:
The reason you haven't got a real response is because practically everyone uses the basic-land + sleeves approach. It really is the best for providing the same feel as real magic, without getting into awkward faking discussions.

Or you can do sleeve + card with the same color and CMC as the card your proxing!

Its what i do. instead of basic lands.

Mon, 2009-08-24 02:28
Rusty Keyes
Administrator
Rusty Keyes's picture

But the CMC is going to be covered up anyway... And both the color and cost of the other card would be irrelevant...

Administrator

Mon, 2009-08-24 10:36
Armspt
Armspt's picture

Well, I work at a print shop and I found that a paper with 250grams gets really close to the actual cards. If you could find Xerox's 250g silk paper, you'll get great quality. I know this because I printed some of my cards on this paper. It's thick enough to give that card feel but far enough from Magic's actual paper thickness so people know it isn't the real cards. That's what I do... I like people knowing that those cards are not real, that they are home-made. I actually find that that makes my friends become even more interested in them and ask me how I made them, which gives me the chance to talk about MSE! ^__^

My guess is that Magic cards have 285grams but it's hard find that kind of paper. You could try a 280 grams but the ones I know are all matte and you can't get that shine that silk paper has. You could also try canson paper (easy to find and print) but it doesn't have that silk paper's touch and shine and thickness. Even though it's thick enough to give a slight card feeling.

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Mon, 2009-08-24 18:36
Picks-at-Flies
Picks-at-Flies's picture

*Makes a note for when he may want to demo a game to Important People*
(Yeah, not one made with MSE, ref.)

Edit: this reminds me of the odd fact that I only visited MSE originally to make a plugin for Rage. Before I got hooked on the forums here, my Magic creation history was limited to a set I made about 12 years ago (I made Slivers before Slivers... but they weren't anywhere near as good). /end detour

Mon, 2009-08-24 21:34
innuendo
innuendo's picture

Magic doesn't use "paper" per se. They use a mix of paper and other materials to get the bounce and stiffness in their cards. If you compare the "bendiness" of MtG to say Yugioh you can quickly see the difference isn't just the weight. It's also coated, so you wont get mtg feel cards without a fair bit of work.

But yeah, armspt has some great pointers to get you close.

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